The Best Looks From London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023

Burberry’s new creative director Daniel Lee provided a clean slate for the British mega-brand with his refined collection of instantly wearable duds. He forsook the Burberry beige and tartan, with nary a trench in sight. Read our full review here.

Fifteen years later, Jonathan Anderson is still the wackiest, most innovative designer on the London scene. To honor the anniversary of his namesake brand, he enlisted the help of Scottish dancer Michael Clark, whose phallic neon green iconography lended itself to cheeky tank tops and logo tees. Anderson is a master of proportion, and subtly nodded to some of his greatest hits from years past, with massive bandana-style pants and the legendary wrap-around single-sleeve knits that proved his ingenuity almost a decade ago. Because when you’re that good, why not refer back to your own work? Circularity is most definitely in.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

Richard Quinn reached the height of his romantic, couture-like designs with a show filled quite literally to the brim with flowers. His design chops were in full effect, with nods to the great 20th-century couturiers (Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior). This was one of his more refined collections, with the attention to detail reaching a fever pitch he hasn’t yet hit before. The final run of bridal looks was a perfect contrast to last season’s opening run of funereal looks mourning the Queen. If this collection isn’t the perfect calling card for Quinn to helm a major brand, what is?—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

This season, the talent incubator Fashion East presented a remarkable collection comprised of three designers, highlighting true craftsmanship throughout. Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground reconstructed classic garments into sensational upscale pieces, Johanna Parv took a utilitarian approach to dressing the female body, and Karoline Vitto invoked sensuality in the best way possible. Each designer flourished by creating tailored looks ready to be worn, and the collective proved once again why it showcases emerging fashion designers, because they know fashion and function.—Karla Lopez, freelance fashion assistant

Designer Holly Wright and buyer Camille Perry presented their debut collection for Tove with their signature touch of minimalism and sophistication. Known for its seasonless approach, Tove has proven to be a brand conscious of what the modern customer wants: a fail-proof capsule wardrobe meant to be worn for all occasions. Though colors and embellishments were minimal, the real focus was centered around the silhouette and fabrics chosen; this was a deliberate decision made by the brand as materials were selected based on low impact and degradability. The debut collection gave viewers a stellar example of what happens when refined clothing is created with a “less is more” approach.—Karla Lopez, freelance fashion assistant

Talia Byre is a new name on the London Fashion Week schedule this season, presenting her deathly cool take on modern female tailoring and shirting. Her influences this season ran the gamut from ’60s iconography like Funny Girl to Helen Frankenthaler, whose muted yet diverse color palette inspired her reds, greens, and browns. Sharp leather suits and crisp poplin shirts contrasted with raw-hem cotton skirts and knit dresses. A slight perverse edge hung over the collection, drawing in the crowd. No promises on the models cracking a smile.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

Christopher Kane presented a sweet and cheeky collection, but this time with an elegant twist. Fall/winter 2023 commenced with an introduction of distorted shapes and unconventional silhouettes, a playful-yet-approachable design aesthetic to remind the public that fashion is meant to be fun and experimental. With saturated vinyl peplum skirts paired with structured knits and embroidered flowers, it was a clear sign that the spirit of this assortment was youthful. Shockingly, what followed was an array of floor-length dresses plastered with prints of clustered pigs, chicks and rats, co-created with AI. It was clear in the end that Kane had a bit of nostalgia for his time growing up in Scotland.—Karla Lopez, freelance fashion assistant