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When it comes to fashion industry shakeups, Daniel Lee seems to be the go-to. The English designer brought significant change to Bottega Veneta several years ago, ushering in a new era of luxury for the Italian house. And now, he’s been tasked with updating the storied Burberry brand. His first collection, which was unveiled last night in London, gave a little taste of what he believes is the future of fashion for the British label, and the world. For the uninitiated, Lee is a marketing whiz, as seen with his explicit return to Burberry’s signature Equestrian Knight Design (EKD)—this time, in a bold royal blue—which appeared in storefronts and campaigns well before his first look hit the runway. He can see directly into the future of creating what people want before they even know they want it; to put it plainly: Lee can see ahead of the curve. The first thing to go was the minimal logos, which are all ubiquitous and defy classicism, something Lee leans into and rejects in equal doses.
What was noticeably missing from his debut was the legendary Burberry khaki trench and check in its classic tan/white/black iteration. Instead, Lee took the checks and opted for royal blues, purples, yellows, and greens. Super-saturated versions on the bias cut defined the coolness he brings to his creations. Trenches made an appearance in the opening duo of looks, but in a subdued forest green and, notably, florals on a furry closing look. Shoes were fuzzy with foxtails for heels and delicate leather straps, balancing hard and soft with ease, or took the form of otherwise simple wellies or furry chukkas in yellows and tans. Bags were also replete with foxtails, and slung across the body or under the shoulder. The styling, if not a bit overwhelming, spoke to the range Lee envisions for the brand as it reinvents itself yet again.
There was a youth in Lee’s approach that was not seen in former creative director Riccardo Tisci’s rather rigid designs, one that speaks to a variety of customers, with cheeky graphic tees, ridiculously large hunting hats, and even a hilarious knitted duck hat as seen on model Kit Butler on the runway. It also marked the first time since Christopher Bailey’s tenure that a true Englishman is at the helm of the brand, marking a true synergy between designer and house, one we can’t wait to see evolve as he further defines what Burberry means to him.
Kevin LeBlanc is the Fashion Associate at ELLE Magazine. He covers fashion news, trends, and anything to do with Robyn Rihanna Fenty.
